A Pilgrim’s Journey with High Hopes

Bodh Gaya—a name that evokes peace, sanctity, and spiritual awakening for millions of Buddhists around the world. As pilgrims, we carry the hope of connecting with the divine, meditating amidst serene surroundings, and walking in the footsteps of Buddha. For me, this journey began with the same sense of reverence and anticipation. However, what unfolded was a stark contrast, leaving me questioning the balance between devotion and the disruptions that now pervade this sacred place.

The Journey

Our pilgrimage began with a flight from Delhi to Patna, a short journey of about an hour. From there, we booked a taxi to Gaya for Rs.3,500. The four-hour drive was uneventful, but as we reached our destination, the cracks in the experience started to show. The taxi driver, expecting a tip beyond the agreed fare, exemplified a common practice among drivers in India. As soon as we stepped out of the vehicle, we were surrounded by beggars, each clamoring for money. It was our first glimpse of the chaos that awaited us.

After resting in the hotel that night, we headed to the Mahabodhi Temple the next morning, eager to experience the tranquility we had dreamed of. What we encountered, however, was far from serene.

A Clash Between Sacredness and Exploitation

Stepping out of the hotel, we were immediately met by an onslaught of individuals pushing to sell flowers, khatas, masks, and more. Beggars, young and old, relentlessly tugged at our emotions in hopes of money. The very path leading to the temple felt like a marketplace, where spirituality was overshadowed by commercialism.

Giving alms to the poor is undoubtedly a noble act—one that stems from the heart, inspired by genuine compassion. When we see those less fortunate and feel the urge to help, knowing that even a small act of generosity might provide food or relief, it fosters a meaningful connection between the giver and the recipient. However, when alms are demanded or coerced, even the most willing individual may feel a loss of that heartfelt intention. Compassion, in such moments, risks being overshadowed by frustration or obligation, which diminishes the essence of giving.

Like many other aspects that exploit pilgrims, there are also groups of people who engage in scams involving butter lamp offerings. Vendors line the premises of the main temple with pre-arranged butter lamps, often sold at a price of Rs. 500 for 108 lamps. These lamps hold deep spiritual significance for devotees, many of whom purchase them with hopes of earning good merit—be it for their departed loved ones, for world peace, or simply to offer prayers.

The process begins with lighting the lamps, which typically take time to burn fully. Trusting the vendors, devotees often leave the site before the lamps have completely burned, believing that the lamps will continue to illuminate their prayers. However, in a shocking and disheartening turn of events, these vendors often extinguish the lamps shortly after the devotees leave, only to resell the same lamps to others. Witnessing such practices in a place as sacred as Bodh Gaya is both heartbreaking and deeply unsettling.

A Heartbreaking Sight

As we circled the temple for circumambulation, the diversity of people stood out. While many came with genuine devotion, the sight of individuals dressed as monks, but clearly there to beg, was deeply unsettling. These individuals, from various backgrounds, seemed to have only one focus—money. Their eyes followed pilgrims’ hands, waiting for the moment someone reached into their pockets. It was a stark contrast to the authentic monks, who meditated and prayed with unwavering sincerity.

Among the most heart-wrenching sights were groups of young children, no older than 8 to 12 years old, scattered across the temple premises in the early morning hours. Pretending to be monks, they chanted “OM MANI PADME HUM” —a sacred mantra reduced to a tool for solicitation. Lined up in the main temple, their focus was not on devotion or prayer but solely on how much money they could coax from the visiting devotees. This dissonance—the innocence of their youth overshadowed by their calculated intent—was deeply unsettling and emblematic of the broader exploitation pervading the sacred site.

Perhaps the most astonishing discovery was a monk displaying a “prayer rate list,” assigning monetary values to prayers. This commercialization of spirituality felt like a betrayal of the very essence of Bodh Gaya.

A Call for Balance

My experience at Bodh Gaya was a mix of awe and disillusionment. The sacredness of this place, so central to Buddhism, remains undeniable. Yet, the chaos and exploitation surrounding it threaten to tarnish its sanctity. Pilgrims travel from far and wide, hoping for peace and spiritual renewal, only to be met with an atmosphere that often feels driven by profit.

To preserve the essence of Bodh Gaya, there is an urgent need for better management and regulation. Authorities must take steps to protect pilgrims from aggressive solicitation and create designated areas for vendors and beggars, separate from the main temple. Moreover, the community must come together to uphold the values of compassion, respect, and humility that are at the heart of Buddhism.